African Ambulances and All-Nighters

This morning, I awoke to the sound of rain, trumpeting its arrival on the roof like the percussion section of a high school marching band sandwiched between floats of Leprechauns and Irish Princesses in a St Patrick’s Day parade. Now, with the tide rolled back as far as the eye can see, the scent of salt heavy in the air, and the clouds tucked around me like a grey Vancouver blanket, today feels like as good a day as any to break my Zanzibar Silence and tell you a story.

It started back on March 22nd. The day I turned 33 amidst baby spit-up and the Motherless Children of Rwanda climbing my legs like the iron bars of a jungle gym. By late afternoon, I arrived back at my volunteer house, sweaty, dirty, and in desperate need of a REAL shower (instead of the bucket and cold water awaiting me in the closet-sized bathroom with the door that didn’t properly close).  Continue reading

The Sound of Silence…

The hum of a gelato machine rumbles behind me as I squint and wait for my eyes to adjust to the airport’s dim lighting. Across the expansive back wall is a life size mural of the rolling hills of Rwanda, complete with coffee plantations and caricatures of generously hipped African women carrying wicker baskets on their heads. I sip my cappuccino and watch well-dressed people file through the front door and load their luggage onto a whining belt. As I wait for the announcement that will allow me to check in for my Kenyan Airways flight to Nairobi, tightness inches up my esophagus, like the rising mercury in a thermometer, and I have to look down at the floor to hide my tears.

As I steel myself to say goodbye to a country of people who are more gracious, welcoming, and kind than most I’ve ever seen, numbness finally sets in. I am still processing stories and images from people who have survived worse atrocities than most of us will ever know in our most horrific nightmares. People who, in spite of coming face to face with the devil, have a deep and abiding faith in the Power of God to help them endure anything. Continue reading

When Was Your Last Heartbreak?

Do you remember the punch in the gut feeling of saying goodbye to someone you loved for the last time? Maybe you spent endless days strategizing about whether you could somehow win her back. Or, maybe you invited your friends over to drink gallons of cheap wine while you said good riddance to him and then updated your online dating profile.

For me, the heartbreak is so razor fresh that I can feel the warmth of his little head as he burrows his face into my chest – fighting a yawn and wrapping his tiny fingers around my arm; I can see her running towards me – arms outstretched and legs pumping, as she waits for me to lift her onto my hip; I can smell the rice and beans smeared all over his face as I shovel a bite of lunch into his wide open mouth; and I can feel the weight of his 10 year old palm in my hand as he looks at me in confusion when I explain I can’t come back Ajo (tomorrow). Continue reading

Rwanda – “Our Nightmare & Our Dreams”

“It has been estimated that 90% of the children who survived (the Genocide) in Rwanda saw someone they knew die a violent death during that time.” Romeo D’Allaire – Shake Hands With The Devil.

In the opening scene from Romeo’s book, he tells the story of coming across a small boy, walking barefoot down a gravel road. In spite of the risk of taking fire (this was during the height of the conflict), D’Allaire got out of his vehicle and followed the little boy down a rocky lane. The child entered a small hut and ran over to bury his face in the skirt of his dead mother. His parents had been bludgeoned by machetes and clubs and left for dead at a little table. This child had been alone for a days, with no food, water, or protection as the bodies of his parents slowly decomposed.

This image continues to haunt me and I can barely swallow the lump in my throat as I think about that little boy. A child  - much like the one I’m holding in this picture. An innocent child, who in an instant became one of the 300,000 orphans created by the Rwandan Genocide. Who somehow survived the senseless killing of over a million people in the span of 100 days.

Unlike in many conflict situations, the women and children of Rwanda became a direct target of the extremist Hutu Interahamwe to ensure another generation of Tutsis did not emerge. Murderers used machetes, clubs, guns, and any blunt tool they could find to inflict as much pain as possible on their victims. Children were frequently forced to participate – by killing neighbours and friends and sometimes women were even forced to kill their own children. It’s devastating and unimaginable, isn’t it? Continue reading

The Motherless Children of Rwanda…

Hot bodies press up against either side of me as we bounce over rocks and swerve around potholes. Through the open window, I see a young man wearing a clean and crisp purple t-shirt. So clean, in fact, that it doesn’t fit with the yellow gasoline container in his hands or the people in faded and stained clothes in front and behind him. In bold white letters, his t-shirt reads, “FedEx Cares”. I feel like I’ve stepped into a FedEx commercial. “African boy walks miles to collect water wearing a t-shirt donated by FedEx.” (Yes – everyone hear uses gasoline and oil containers to transport water)

A tap on the roof signals to the driver to stop and as we careen over the side of the road, a woman in a long brightly patterned skirts runs to catch up to the van. Before she has even found a seat on one of the crowded benches, the dilapidated van pulls back onto the road and we chug up the steep hill out of Gisenyi (Rwanda), belching black exhaust and broadcasting the latest Rihanna song out of the crackling speakers. Continue reading

Will You Wear Jeans on March 22nd?

I need your help and I have to keep this quick because I’ve arrived in Gisenyi, Rwanda and Internet is a precious commodity (along with electricity and running water).

On Thursday, March 22nd, I become old (well, old enough to think about how different I thought my life would be at 33). But, I’m not complaining. I get spend my birthday with the most beautiful group of babies and toddlers you could imagine (aside from your own, of course). Within 5 minutes today at the Noel Orphanage, I had already crashed into love 4 times. I don’t want to think about the super human strength it will take to pry myself away from these children in 2 weeks.

But, back to wearing jeans… Continue reading

About to Put The “A” in Adventure…

“The toilet paper is the consistency of bat droppings,” my sister-in-law laughed as she shared a story about her volunteer trip to Zanzibar a few years ago. Great! Just as I’m getting used to the creature comforts of the first world, I’m setting off again – back into the land of scratchy toilet paper…

As I sit at Heathrow airport, sipping what will probably be my last cappuccino until I arrive back in the UK on April 13th, I’m bracing myself for cold water showers, chaotic rides on public buses, and a whole lot of dust and grime. Continue reading